Intro page....

This page shows an example of the step by step instructions included with Hooton AirCraft models - please note that the illustrations here are at low resolution and do not show all the detail on the original hard copy.

RIGGING.

The floats on the S5 are asymmetric, the starboard hand (right side) being further out from the fuselage than the port. This was to overcome the corkscrewing effect of propeller torque on take-off. To assemble the floats to the airframe with the correct alignments and asymmetry, the floats and their struts need to be assembled in a jig.

ASSEMBLY JIG

Cut out parts 50 - 53 for float jig and display trestle. A more robust assembly for final display can be made by transferring the profiles to thick card or thin wood. Assemble together the trestle base. Place the floats on the base, making sure the float step is located in the recess. Attach the floats to the base with low tack draghting tape. Cut the horizontal bracings from wire, insert into holes in floats and apply a drop of cyano to each end. Allow to dry, then glue the strut vertical template onto the base, locating the darts in its lower section tight over the horizontal bracing wires. Make sure that the template is vertical to the base.

FLOAT SUPPORT STRUTS.

Insert the leg lower ends ot the pre-bent wire struts into the appropriate holes in the float tops. The angle bend at the top of the struts should fit snugly into the darts in the top of the vertical template without distorting the card. Adjust if necessary before gluing the lower ends to the floats.

Cut out the float strut fairings (SR1, SR 2 strut rear side 1, side 2: SF 1,SF 2 strut front side 1, side 2) and glue around float struts. The lower ends should be hard against the float skins, leaving an exposed vee of wire at the top ends. Allow to dry, then attach rigging thread, cross bracing as shown. Cut out the strut end fairings (SFT, SFB strut fairing front top and bottom; SRT,SRB strut fairing rear top and bottom) and glue to strut ends over the rigging threads. When all complete and dry, carefully cut away the vertical template and remove

Make sure that all rigging holes in wings and cylinder fairings are clear through the skins in the airframe(it will be necessary to re-pierce the holes in the wings through the spars)

Glue the airframe onto the vee of exposed wire at the top of the float struts with cyano, making sure that the wings are true and level. Cut all the rigging wires to length and glue in place as shown. It is best to loosely assemble all these into their respective holes, check alignments and finally fix with drops of cyano.

PROPELLER AND FINAL TOUCHES.

Materials are provided for two alternative props. Either make up the prop as shown from card, or use the card part as a template to cut a prop from the strip of sheet brass.

Trim back the vac form spinner from its carrier, cut opposing triangular cut outs (for card prop) or opposing slots at about 45 degrees it using the brass prop. Glue prop into spinner and whole assemble onto nose.

Various methods can be used to have a spinning prop, including even mounting a small electric motor in the nose. I leave this to the experts though.

Finally, all rough edges around the model can be lightly sanded with very fine wet and dry, and exposed white edges of card tinted out with coloured pen or matching paint